Northern lights in Norway

Coast or inland: the choice that matters

The Norwegian coast is mild thanks to the Gulf Stream. Tromsø often sits around −3 to −6 °C (21–27 °F) in winter, which makes standing outside at night far more pleasant than in Lapland. The price is weather: fronts from the Atlantic bring cloud, rain and snow showers.

Go inland and the picture changes. The Finnmark plateau, Finnmarksvidda, around Kautokeino and Karasjok, is cold and dry, with clear nights below −25 °C (−13 °F) and occasionally below −40. Closer to Tromsø, the valley at Skibotn lies in the shadow of the Lyngen Alps and is often clear when the city is not. Most chase tours from Tromsø head that way, sometimes all the way into Finland.

Tromsø

The default choice, and for good reason. There are usually direct flights from London in winter and frequent connections through Oslo, so a trip from the UK or via a European hub is simple. Americans usually connect through Oslo or another European hub.

You can see the aurora from the town bridge or Prestvannet lake on a good night, but Kvaløya, the island just west of the city, and the fjords to the north are darker and quick to reach. If you hire a car, Ersfjordbotn and Sommarøy are popular, and so is anywhere along the road towards Lyngen.

Senja

Norway's second-largest island lies south-west of Tromsø, with jagged peaks rising straight from the sea at Bergsbotn, Tungeneset and Mefjordvær. It is quieter, darker and more dramatic than the areas near Tromsø. The trip planner shows September as Senja's best month over 2005–2025, ahead of October. Reach it by car via Finnsnes, around three hours from Tromsø, and stay at least two nights.

Lofoten

Lofoten is for photographers: fishing huts on stilts in Reine and Hamnøy, beaches at Haukland, Uttakleiv and Skagsanden, and mountains on every horizon. The aurora at Svolvær sits high in the northern sky even on quiet nights, roughly 57° up at Kp 0.

It is also the wettest part of this list. Plan at least four nights, keep the car ready and accept that some evenings will be spent indoors. Flights go to Svolvær, Leknes or Harstad/Narvik Evenes airport, which is about three hours' drive away.

Alta, Narvik and the North Cape

Alta is known in Norway as the town of the northern lights. Kristian Birkeland, who first explained the aurora scientifically, worked from an observatory on the mountain Haldde nearby around 1900. Today it has a striking cathedral dedicated to the aurora, a drier climate than Tromsø and good dog-sledding.

Narvik suits rail fans and skiers. It has a ski area above town and is the western end of the Ofoten line to Kiruna in Sweden, so a combined Norway–Sweden trip is easy. The North Cape area around Honningsvåg is wild and exposed. In winter the last stretch of road is driven in convoy behind a snowplough and can close in storms, so check before you set off.

Svalbard

Longyearbyen, at 78°N, is a different experience altogether. From mid-November to late January the sun stays below the horizon all day, and in the darkest weeks you can see the aurora at noon. From late April to late August there is no darkness at all, and no aurora to see.

You cannot leave the settlement without an armed guide because of polar bears, so aurora outings here are guided, often by snowmobile or snowcat. Flights come from Oslo or Tromsø.

Getting around without stress

If you are not used to driving on snow and ice, do not start in the dark on an unfamiliar fjord road. Northern Norway has excellent chase tours that watch the cloud forecasts and drive wherever the sky is clearest, sometimes 150 km (95 miles) or more in a night. For a first trip that is usually the better choice.

If you do drive, hire cars come with studded or winter tyres. Roads along the coast are well cleared, but tunnels, black ice on bridges and reindeer on the road are normal hazards. Keep the tank at least half full: petrol stations in Finnmark can be an hour apart, and some close early.

A practical tip for UK visitors: Norway uses the 24-hour clock and the same time zone as most of Europe, one hour ahead of London. The aurora is usually strongest between about 21:00 and 01:00 local time, so a late dinner and an early night rarely mix well with a chase.

When to go

The season runs from early September to late March, with a few chances into early April. In Tromsø the midnight sun lasts from about 20 May to 22 July, and the light nights either side of it rule out the aurora from roughly mid-April to late August. The polar night, when the sun does not rise, runs from late November to mid-January.

September and October bring autumn colours, open water and reflections, and the trip planner gives them the best odds in Tromsø over 2005–2025. December and January offer the long blue twilight of the polar night. February and March have more snow, more daylight and generally steadier weather.

• UK October half-term: good, with mild temperatures and long nights already.
• Christmas and New Year: atmospheric, but the busiest and stormiest time on the coast.
• February half-term and early March: a good balance of snow, light and clear spells.

Frequently asked questions

Is Tromsø or Lofoten better for the northern lights? Tromsø is easier, with more transport and tours and quicker escapes inland. Lofoten has better landscapes but wetter weather. For a first trip, start in Tromsø.

Can I see the aurora in Oslo or Bergen? Only during strong storms, low on the northern horizon. For regular sightings you need to be north of the Arctic Circle.

Do I need to drive into Finland on a chase? Sometimes. When the coast is cloudy, tours from Tromsø regularly drive to Skibotn or over the border to Kilpisjärvi, about 2.5 hours away. Take your passport.

Is a coastal cruise a good way to see the aurora? It works because the ship keeps moving and the open deck is dark, but you cannot steer towards clear sky. Treat it as a bonus rather than a guarantee.